IMPORTANT: THIS FORMULATION IS FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY AND NOT COMMERCIAL USE.
Please credit @MissusKisses if you post or discuss any variation of this formula elsewhere (your own blog, social media, YouTube video, etc.). Contact me if you have any questions!
DISCLAIMER: USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Please examine the ingredients and perform your own patch test. Note that I am not a cosmetic scientist and have only tested out this product on myself.
- 5-gram empty clear round jars
- Silicone spatula
- Tea ball strainer (2.5″ diameter top opening)
- Condiment cups (2.5″ diameter top opening)
- Pressing ribbon
- 26mm press pack
- Dropper bottle (for pre-mixing glycerin and preservative)
- Digital scale (preferably one that measures down to 0.01 grams)
- Gloves, mask, 99% isopropyl alcohol
|Ingredient||Percentage by Weight||Weight|
|Kaolin Clay||15.6%||0.8 grams|
|Calcium Carbonate||11.5%||0.6 grams|
|Glycerin/Preservative Mix||11.5%||0.6 grams|
|Distilled Water||23%||1.2 grams|
|Acacia Gum Powder||3.9%||0.2 grams|
|Color Mica/Synthetic Mica||23%||1.2 grams|
|Oxides/Titanium Dioxide||11.5%||0.6 grams|
Add the dry ingredients (kaolin clay, calcium carbonate, acacia gum powder, mica, oxides) by weight into a condiment cup, using a digital scale.
My original formulation only used micas (technically, fluorphlogopite to avoid potential unethical mica mining where possible), but adding oxides helps with opacity. Here I used Synthetic Orange and Orange Oxide to keep things simple, but you could also use Zinc Oxide to brighten or Black Oxide to darken and/or mix and match as appropriate.
If you haven’t worked with oxides before, note that you won’t be able to see the colors from the oxides fully just by manually mixing. In making pressed eyeshadows, I grind the oxides into the powdered base, but given the amount of liquids we use in this recipe that will help dye the batch, grinding is not necessary. If you do want to grind the oxides, add the mica/fluorphlogopite afterwards, as mica/fluorphlogopite can lose luster when grinded. Or grind them all together if you want less luster.
I have not experimented with full oxides or other matte pigments/dyes yet for this formulation, but I will be doing so and will post my results.
Tips/Notes: Protecting Yourself and the Product
Inhaling the dust from the dry ingredients can be harmful, so wear a dust mask.
As for disinfecting the containers, I use 99% isopropyl alcohol (which seems to be hard to find in brick-and-mortar stores). I generally use 99% alcohol to avoid corroding tin pans, but using 91% or 70% alcohol here would work, too.
Wear gloves, too!
Mix the dry ingredients using the silicone spatula.
You’ll see that some of the dry ingredients are clumpy, so I like to sift the ingredients for better mixing.
Place the tea strainer/sieve on top of another condiment cup.
Tips/Notes: Streamlining the Process
I recommend this specific tea strainer/sieve because it’s the same diameter as the condiment cups, which makes the whole process easier. This tea strainer also comes in a ball form. When open, twist the strainer in the middle, and you can easily separate it into two strainers! Of course, you can use differently sized sieves and containers (and much larger ones if you’re making a large batch), but the ones I recommend are perfect for our batch size, as well as individual eyeshadow batch sizes.
This strainer from TKB will also work with condiment cups.
Sift the dry ingredients into the new condiment cup, using the silicone spatula to drive the powders through.
When done, use the silicone spatula to tap the tea strainer/sieve to shake loose the stuck powders.
Mix the sifted ingredients.
Now place the sifted ingredients back onto the scale.
Add the glycerin/preservative mix and distilled water by weight.
Tips/Notes: Preparing the Liquid Ingredients
I premixed the glycerin and preservative into a blue dropper bottle at the ratio of 99% glycerin and 1% preservative by weight. The glycerin is quite viscous, so the dropper will have thick coats of it on the outside of the dropper as well. To have more control over the weighing process, make sure the thick coats on the outside of the dropper fall off before adding the contents inside the dropper.
In fact, to have more control over the distilled water, I placed it into a dropper bottle as well.
Mix until the ingredients clump together.
Transfer the ingredients into the 5-gram clear container.
Place the pressing ribbon on top of the container.
Use the pressing tile/tamper tool to press down until the ingredients are compressed.
Tips/Notes: Pressing the Contents
The 5-gram clear containers I chose in part also because of the 26mm top opening, which is also the standard size for round eyeshadow tin pans. You can multi-task the press pack for both your eyeshadow needs and graphic liner needs!
You can substitute the pressing ribbons with other fabric or paper towels. You can also use a U.S. quarter and some other tool to help you press.
And now you’re done!
Test out your new graphic liner. Performing a patch test is always a good idea to ensure the formula does not irritate you.
This formula includes, for example, phenoxyethanol as part of the preservative blend. While it is unlikely to cause irritation at this percentage level, some people may be more sensitive to this than others.
If you have any suggestions or your own tips, please feel free to leave them in the comments below.